Scoping Out Pisa and Ravenna

Lots of pictures in this one! Get ready...

Me and Kit on the train - super excited to go to Pisa.

Friday

This weekend was "go, go, go" from the very beginning. On Friday, Elle, Kit and I decided to take a morning train to Pisa (an hour away and only six euros!) When we arrived in Pisa, lunch was definitely our first priority. While roaming the streets in search of a good pizza place (pizza in Pisa - get it!? Hahaha!), I found Pisa to be a very beautiful town. Much less congested than Florence with more open skies and fewer buildings.

Lunch was great! I actually didn't end up getting pizza like Kit and Elle because there was too much cheese on it for me. I prefer less than one inch of cheese on my pizza and more sauce. Nonetheless, the panini I ordered on focaccia bread was excellent! I probably shouldn't have drenched it in olive oil though...

With satiated stomachs, we headed to the leaning tower of Pisa, of course. From the angle at which we approached the tower, it didn't look like it was leaning at all, which was really disappointing. But when we saw it from the front....wow! It was enough to make you feel a little dizzy. I instinctively kept tilting my head to "fix" the slant.

We made a collective decision not to climb the tower and instead pay to go inside the baptistry and cemetery. From what I can guess, every major city in Italy has a Duomo (the

city's main cathedral) with a separate circular-shaped baptistry and a clock tower. And if you didn't already know, the leaning tower is Pisa's Duomo's bell tower (the bells have actually contributed considerably to the tower's leaning.) The three structures, white as snow, sit on the greenest grass I've ever seen. The color is deceiving, because it makes you think of springtime and warm weather, which is so NOT the case in Italy right now.

Anyway, the baptistry was okay. It was very empty with minimal art, and I think that is because you are not supposed to be distracted in any way during a baptism. So, while art inside a church can enhance worship, art inside a baptistry is believed to detract from worship/baptisms. I say this with complete confidence, but it's actually just a guess. There was, however, a pulpit that I studied in my art history class freshman year that I was able to see, which was really neat (shown on the left. Sculpted by Nicola Pisano). Another fact: the baptistry has very strong, notable acoustics. When Elle, Kit and I were snapping pictures, a woman went to the pulpit and started singing. It was kind of an odd thing to do at the time, but her voice was amazing and it bounced off the walls beautifully.

After we went in the baptistry (which I forgot to tell you was dedicated to St. John the Baptist), the three of us headed to the Duomo, and let me tell you...it is SO underrated! I was more impressed with the inside of the cathedral than I was with the leaning tower. The art inside this enormous church was incredible! Lined with Biblical stories on either side of the walls was enough to occupy anyone for hours.

Dedicated to St. Mary of the Assumption, the Duomo's construction began in 1063.

It's Romanesque style architecture is infused with Byzantine mosaics and Muslim inspired pointed arches. I actually thought these arches were borrowed from Gothic architecture (before I knew that Gothic architecture didn't exist until the 12th century) and was later surprised that an architect of that time would borrow designs from another religion to design a Cathedral. In any case, everything about the design is beautiful - from the doors to the interior ceilings to the floor. Take a look!

The facade of the church is made of grey marble and white stone and the massive bronze doors momentarily distract you from the beautiful detail of the columns that have relief with Biblical figures. I was not prepared for what I saw when we walked inside. The ceiling was magnificent! Don't you think it's absolutely stunning!? The gold ceiling, however, was not originally installed in the cathedral. After an unfortunate fire in 1595, the original coffer ceiling was replaced by gold - a task carried out by the Medici family (one of, if not the, most popular royal family in Italy at the time).

When we decided that thirty minutes worth of pictures was probably enough, we headed outside toward the Campo Santo (cemetery), which many believe to be the most beautiful cemetery in the world. Personally, I'm not sure if I would say that, but it was definitely interesting. It actually didn't really look that much like a cemetery, or at least what we're used to in the States. In fact, the rectangular building was pretty empty with just a handful of scattered coffins on the perimeter. However, what was really neat about it was the open courtyard in the middle, which is supposedly covered or scattered with sacred soil from Golgotha, brought back to

Pisa from the Fourth Crusade. (Note the foot-to sacred soil contact in the photo. Not sure if this was allowed)...

The frescos that somewhat remained on the walls contributed to the building's ancient appearance, which was erected in the 14th century. Unfortunately, bombs from World War II were responsible for some of the lost and deterriorated art. Since then, restoration has been in progress. The cemetery marked the end of our adventure in Pisa.

On our way back to the train station, Kit was determined to find a Magnum bar, her favorite ice cream treat. I had never heard of them before, but do you think that would stop me from trying one!? Nope! And it was delicious! Chocolate coating with another layer of chocolate and then chocolate ice cream. Yum! Anyone ever tried a Magnum bar? Karlie, you would love it! If ice cream didn't melt, I'd bring you back a dozen!

The train brought us back to Florence at around 5:30 and we met up with a group of about seven people for drinks and aperitivo (appetizers) at around 6:00. After that, we dispersed to our own host families so we could get plenty of rest for the school trip to Ravenna the next morning.

...

Saturday (the next morning)

Two buses filled with Syracuse students left campus at 7:30a.m. and headed toward Ravenna, home of the most beautiful Byzantine churches that are adorned with incredible mosaics. Mom, you would have loved it! Remember when you got into that mosaic phase years ago and started making your own mosaic lamps and picture frames and stuff? Well, I'm sure if you saw this back then, our house would be completely mosaic! Hahaha, wouldn't that be interesting!?

Our first stop was San Apollinare in Classe, which was my favorite of the five churches we toured. I'm showing you the apse in these pictures. The apse is the domed part of the church at the very end where the altar usually sits. And the apse in all of the churches we visited was the most decorated part, probably because this is the spot where the eucharist takes place. And since the eucharist is the focal point of worship in Catholicism, it makes sense that all of the artistic attention would be centralized in this area. Note again that this art is made entirely of mosaic! Isn't that amazing!?

Before I begin my shpeal on the symbolism, I should give you a little background of art during this time. Byzantine art is characteristic of the Byzantine Empire. The Byzantine Empire is just another name for the Roman Empire during the Middle Ages, a time when Constantinople was the capital of Italy and emperors had great power and influence (both politically and religiously). Byzantine art was characterized by stiff figures and objects that don't appear to be shown in perspective. Also, the mot common medium was mosaic (you probably already figured this out).

Okay, so using these images to give you a little lecture, hopefully I can spread and share my love for art with you. Let's give it a go...

The man under the cross is Saint Apollinaris, asking god to give grace to and provide for the faithful. His arms open indicate the type of worship at the time. So, when you see people in church with their arms extended during praise songs, know that this gesture goes way back. And the six lambs on either side represent the twelve apostles, Christ's followers - the faithful (whom Saint Apollinaris prays for).

On top of the dome are four characters, symbolic of the synoptic gospels: an ox, angel, lion and eagle. The ox is Luke's icon and represents a figure of sacrifice, service and strength - all characteristics of Christ and His Passion and Crucifixion. This suggests that Christians should be prepared to sacrifice themselves when they begin to follow Christ. Matthew's icon is an angel, which makes sense because his gospel begins with Jesus' genealogy from Abraham. So, the face of an angel, similar to the face of people is significant of Christ's family line and His human nature. Mark is depicted by a lion, a figure of courage and monarchy. At the beginning of Mark's gospel, John the Baptist is preaching "like a lion roaring." Further reference is made to Christ's resurrection and Him as king. The lion suggests that Christians should be courageous like a lion when they walk toward the path of salvation, knowing that they will have to make sacrifices. Lastly is John, whose icon is an eagle. I forget the exact reasoning behind this symbolism, but I know it has to do with Christ's ascension, suggesting that Christians should look forward to their union with God in Heaven. And of course, the central figure is Christ himself.

This last image from the same church is so interesting to me - it's the Hand of God. In Byzantine art it was popular to show just the hand of God. Since God's face is a little ambiguous, He is represented with just a hand, which is symbolic in that just the hand of God is powerful enough to create, save and comfort. Isn't that neat? And note the gold around God's hand, which represents Heaven.

After visiting the San Apollinare in Classe, we hopped back on the bus for our final stops at San Vitale, Galla Placidia, Orthodox baptistry, San Apollinare Nuovo and Dante's tomb. Needless to say that after all that walking, the bus ride back was silent (except for the few who snored).

Tonight

I need to run and finish (well, also start) my homework for school tomorrow. But, I just HAD to give you little bits of tonight's dinner conversation:

Giancarlo came over tonight again, and he noticed that Emily doesn't eat a whole lot.

Conversation #1:

Giancarlo: You are not hungry?

Emily: No, I am.

Giancarlo: You don't eat a lot. You must be in love.

Me and Emily: Huh?

Giancarlo: When you are in love, you don't eat. You are hungry for love!

Giancarlo is ALL about the love!

Conversation #2:

Giancarlo: I am king.

Me and Emily: Huh?

Giancarlo(to me): If I was king, you would be my queen.

This was especially awkward because we weren't even talking about kings/queens/royalty at all. So, you can imagine how random it was! Nonetheless, I love Giancarlo because he says what he wants and has so much personality for a 75 year old.

Well, I hope you enjoyed reading and felt like you were experiencing Italy with me. I sure think of all you guys all the time!

A little shout-out to Casey: HAPPY 21st BIRTHDAY!! I SO wish I was there to help you celebrate!

First Few Days in Firenze

Where to begin...

After a long day of traveling on the airplane and bus Monday and Tuesday, we arrived in Firenze at 5:00pm. Having slept only four hours on the plane didn't stop me from taking a two hour tour the night we arrived. Ann, a TA here at the university was an awesome guide, turning our "little" tour into a sight-seeing adventure that kept our legs moving.

She took us to a Tabaccheria (a tobacco/smoke shop that also sells bus tickets and stamps), a café, and a farmacia (pharmacy) and led us to the Duomo, Santa Croce and over the Ponte Vecchio.

The Duomo is a famous cathedral set in the centro of Firenze. It took nearly 150 years to build (completed in 1436)! Molto grazie to Filippo Brunelleschi (a famous Florentine architect) for completing the dome portion, which was left unfinished by the designers of the Duomo since they didn't know how to construct a dome. Lesson: have great faith in your Florentine architect predecessors. The cathedral's detail is absolutely amazing, and to think that it was fashioned in an age without technology is mind-boggling.

But before we stood in the middle of the city in awe of the Duomo, Ann showed us the Santa Croce, the principal Franciscan church in Firenze. With sixteen chapels, it is the largest Franciscan church in the world! Brunelleschi was also involved in the design of the Santa Croce, along with one of my favorite Italian Renaissance painters, Giotto. Fun fact of this particular basilica: it is known as the Temple of the Italian Glories since it is the burial place of Michelangelo, Galileo, Marconi (who invented the radio), and other notable Italian philosophers/writers. Unfortunately, in 1966, the Arno River flooded a good portion of Florence, and the water, mud, pollution and heating oil brought severe damage to the interior and posterior of the Santa Croce, taking several decades to repair.

Day 2 - 3

The next two days were non-stop orientation meetings, academic advising, meeting the professors, meeting the students, etc. It felt like I was at freshman orientation all over again. Syracuse University in Florence is actually a beautiful school, situated about halfway from my house and the Duomo. It has this quaint little quad in the back (which gets wifi - yay!) and a pleasant garden in the front.

I met my host family a few days ago and let me tell you, this is going to be an unforgettable experience. I live with an elderly couple (85 and 88) who I call Nonna (grandma) and Nonno (grandfather). Neither Nonna nor Nonno speak any English, so dinners are mostly filled with gestures, smiling and Emily (my roommate) and I trying to speak Italiano the best we can (with a few awkward silences in between). Nonno is pretty quiet for the most part, but he's an extremely comical man. He's got an distinguished nose and really sweet blue eyes. I think his memory is fading because he asks the same series of questions about five times at dinner. Nonna gets a little frustrated with that and usually jabs him in his side.

Nonna is a wonderful woman! Even with the language barrier, I can honestly say she's one of the kindest, most generous women I've ever met. She puts breakfast out for us every morning, does our laundry and cooks a feast each night for dinner. We ALWAYS have pasta for our first course. The main meal is usually a meat paired with vegetables and salad. Last night we had tortellini soup and then salmon and shrimp with artichokes, broccoli and bread (with fresh olive oil). I know, it's A LOT of food! Mom, you would love her cooking!!

During dinner, Emily and I usually finish off the caraffa by ourselves. Nonna doesn't drink a lot and Nonno only drinks il vino.

Funny dinner moments so far:

1. I tried to practice my Italiano on Nonno and told him he "was a butt," when I meant to say he was cute. He laughed it off by patting Nonna's rear. That was funny but a little awkward to watch a nearly 90 year old man flirt...

2. Conversation I had with Nonno's English speaking 75 year-old cousin:

Me: What do Italians do in their free time?

Giancarlo: We make love!

Me: (hahaha) Excuse me?

Giancarlo: We make love! Don't you like to make love?

Me: uh....

Nonna and Nonno also have the cutest, fattest little dog - Bianca. She makes REALLY strange noises when she's sleeping. The weird sounds that come out of her makes snoring sound pleasant. And she barks A LOT! When the phone rings, when I open the bathroom door, when she wants our dinner... She's actually barking at nothing right now. But I don't mind. It's nice to have a home filled with noise.

Leo, their cat seems to have taken a fondness to me, which is strange since I actually don't like cats and am somewhat scared of them. However, I'm getting used to Leo when she curls up next to me while I type on my computer. As long as she's purring, I know she's happy and isn't going to attack me.

Yesterday

Yesterday, I roamed around the city for six and a half hours with a group of people. We went to the market at San Lorenzo where I bought a pashmina for five euros. After lunch, we headed across the Ponte Vecchio (an old bridge with jewelry shops on either side) and were blinded by the silver and gold window displays. The Arno river runs under the Ponte Vecchio and the view from the end of the bridge is just amazing.

Yesterday, I also bought my very first painting from a street artist. It's a colorful acrylic of the Ponte Vecchio, Arno River and the top of the

Duomo. I bought it for 50 euros, which seems expensive since it wasn't painted on canvas, but it moved me, so I bought it without much thought.

Another wonderful experience yesterday: I bought gelato for the first time. It's popular (or so I thought) to put gelato on a waffle here, so I (of course) tried that! Turns out that's actually a very touristy thing to do. Oh well...Casey, you would have loved it! I kept thinking of how you and I would so enjoy eating such a messy treat together :).

Speaking of people from home, I think of you all often. Little things here or there remind me of specific people. For example, so far the abundance of carbs makes me think of Kelly, Nonna reminds me of Grandma Munhofen, the markets get me wanting Karolina as a shopping buddy (an abundance of scarves and purses, K!), and the soap in the bathroom at our home smells like Taylor. Sorry, Taylor - I know that's kind of lame, but know that I think of you several times a day (or whenever I wash my hands) hahaha!! I love you and wish you were here because you'd be the best travel buddy!

Today

This morning I went to Catholic mass with Nonna. She goes to a church that's 700 years old!! Beautiful art on the inside! Megan, I thought of you and when we went to mass together. I'm so glad I went with you last semester or else I would have been completely lost today instead of just a little! The service was in Italiano, so I didn't really understand a whole lot, but it was really neat to think that God is present in all cultures and is worshiped in all different languages. It makes me think of the Tower of Babel story in the Bible...(in Genesis) when God saw that the Babylonians were selfishly building the city's tower to show off their skill by creating what they wanted to be the tallest tower - so tall it would "reach the heavens." God, displeased with their proud motives and rebellion against Him decided to confuse their language. So on his command, he jumbled their language and that's how we came to have a million different languages! How creative! Can you imagine talking to someone in the same language one second and in the other not being able to understand what they're saying!? I would have thought I'd gone senile...

Anyway, after church, Nonno and Nonna's family came over to help us celebrate Nonno's birthday. Felice Compleanno, Nonno! We had to remind him several times it was his birthday :(. But he seemed as happy as a clam and he's mobile, which is great! And we had the most fabulous birthday lunch for him! Nonna fixed this amazing ravioli stuffed with spinach and ricotta cheese. The main course consisted of little onions, fried potatoes (like nothing you've had in the states), insalata and veal. Yum! And for dessert: profiteroles. A profiterole is a cream puff with chocolate on top. Dad, this was drenched in chocolate! You and I would have licked our plates clean!

Well, dinner is in an hour and I should probably read a little before. But of course I'm going to look at the leather purse I bought today first. Mom, you're going to want to confiscate it. It's okay, we can share...

School starts tomorrow. I'm taking an Italiano class, an oil painting class and two art history classes - one is titled, "16th Century Art and Identity" and the other is "Botticelli: in-depth analysis." He painted the famous "Birth of Venus." Worth looking up online if you don't know what it looks like.

I hope you enjoyed reading this long blog. Sorry for the length, but I wanted to give you every detail I could remember so it would be like you're experiencing Italia with me! Hope you're doing well.

Ciao and I will post again soon!

Countdown

Only a few weeks left until I begin my adventure in Italy. Nervous? Yes. Excited? Absolutely. Am I packed and ready? Are you kidding!?

While having been abroad a few times, I have never had a parentless/friendless/siblingless experience like the one in which I am about to partake. As the only representative from my university, I’m expecting to meet a collage of new people from across the US.

I hope to keep this blog while I’m abroad and update it regularly. I would love for you to follow me so I can clue you in on my daily endeavors with photos and text. Let me know what you’re up to too with a blog response!

Ciao ed Arrivederci!